A Year Down in the Mountain Kingdom of Lesotho

On this day last year, I was welcomed to one of the best experiences of my life. I have spent a lot of time since then appreciating the things I have as well as the things I left behind - family, friends, diet coke, sushi, etc.  I have certainly gained more than I could ever have imagined in the past twelve months.  I remember talking to the PCVs who were finishing up their service last July, and they were telling us that the time FLIES.  I just thought that was one of those things people say...when you have two years ahead of you, it definitely does not seem like it will be a fast journey. But it has already been faster than I could have ever thought. It truly baffles me that we have been here for one year, and we have only one more to go!

I have been considering extending my service to do a third year, but I have not decided about that yet. One thing is for sure - I am not getting any younger! It's probably about time to start a career when I get home, but I have never exactly been on the traditional road of life. Maybe I took the road less traveled - who knows? The only thing I know at this moment is that I am exactly where I am supposed to be. There is no other way it would all feel so perfectly right. Of course there are hard days when you miss your family and friends so much it hurts, OR you would consider homicide for a roll of sushi or a real pizza...but that comes with the territory.

I am thrilled to be fortunate enough to get a trip home this July to visit all my dearly beloved ones!! :) AND I get to officiate the wedding of two of my great friends when I am home. The three of us have a common bond of nomadic nature, so I think it is a great way to celebrate their life together!

With the national elections that were held on May 26th, there was definite concern that the defeated candidate/party might fight the outcome...but things are looking good so far!  It is awfully hard to imagine having to leave this place I call home (for now) without finishing the work I was sent to do. I sincerely hope (for many reasons...not just the selfish ones) that the outcome is peaceful.

Speaking of the work I was sent to do, I am teaching Business to first year students at a technical college, Thaba-Tseka Technical Institute, and I LOVE it! I just finished up my first year of classes, and now I have a lot of downtime until August when we will resume classes. The students are brilliant, and I am so fortunate to have amazing co-workers by my side. The Aerobics class that I had kind of fell through due to lack of stereo equipment, but I am hoping to get that going again in August because the students really loved it...and it's a fun form of exercise. 

To everyone who has emailed, written letters, sent packages, or called, I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart! It means more than I would ever have guessed to know that you are thinking of me and taking time from your busy lives to let me know that you are.

I hope to post some pictures this week of my house, town, and friends here in Thaba-Tseka, Lesotho!

"Be well, do good work, and keep in touch." -Garrison Keillor

Seven Months In

Last week I received an email from a buddy of mine back home, and he asked me how my outlook on life has changed and how the value that I place on certain things (needs vs. wants) has changed.  I thought about it a lot over the past week, and that is definitely not enough time to come to a full conclusion.  In fact, it will likely not be until I have finished this journey that I can answer with any amount of true understanding, but as for now, I have a few thoughts to begin answering these existential questions.

There are things like missing the food you like from time to time, but those are things that you expect when you sign up for an assignment with Peace Corps.  There are things that I didn’t think about such as having to wash my clothes (including jeans and sweatshirts!!) by hand, but that is still something that I should have expected and actually don’t mind doing.  I knew I would be grateful for this opportunity (I was grateful before I even got here), but since I have arrived, I have seen myself change a lot - in mostly positive ways.

I think I have become a stronger person since my arrival in June, but that mission started well before I left the US.  Being here has helped me solidify my sense of self, and I no longer consider any avenue other than being true to myself.  I still have trouble sometimes getting the words right, but the bottom line is that I have to be real – with myself and with others.  There is no dancing around the truth – it is there, and someone has to speak it.  (I learned this working 3^rd shift with my KGB if from no one else!) For better or worse, I offer my services to the necessity more times than not.  I still have some work to do on being eloquent and articulate in this particular area, but the work must continue! 

It is a funny thing – I have been living independently since I was 18, but it wasn’t until I moved to Africa that I learned what true independence is.  It means cooking every single meal, washing every item of clothes, cleaning every inch of your home (including the front yard/porch), boiling and filtering every drop of water you consume, and killing every inhabitant of your home that you do not think belongs.  There are times when I am tired, and I don’t want to cook.  If I don’t cook, I will go hungry (and driving to the nearest drive-thru is NOT an option).  Or times when I don’t feel like doing laundry.  If I don’t wash my clothes, I will have nothing clean to wear the following week, and in Lesotho, cleanliness is next to godliness (or however that saying goes).  Sometimes it is tempting to just drink the water because everyone else (PCVs – ahem!!) does it, but I know that going home for something as preventable as a parasite from unclean water will be a difficult thing for me to live with – so I religiously boil and filter my water. 

That said, these things are the more obvious difficulties that we face…certainly not much different than the challenges my great-grandmother faced when she was my age (but how denim became a popular fabric in an era prior to washing machines may forever blow my mind).  So no use in crying or expecting too much sympathy from that.  But I will say that I have a new found respect for generations who have gone before me (and the Amish, of course)! J 

The value I place on a clean glass of water from the tap is something I hope I will never take for granted again once I am back in the US.  I am a “princess PCV” because I have a flush toilet, but I will tell you this much – I sho am grateful for that thing!  And my health.  Lord have mercy, I never understood how fortunate I was to be born into this world disease-free.  It is an unfortunate state that so many children here do not have the opportunity to be healthy for even one day of their lives or to even have parents who are.  Many children are orphaned by the time they are five years old – something most of us cannot fathom.

I think one of the less obvious challenges we face is isolation.  I am in a pretty remote district of Lesotho up in the mountains, and the closest volunteer (until about a month ago) was over an hour away by bus.  I was able to see fellow PCVs often enough, but when I got lonely or frustrated or discouraged, I had to rely on my own coping skills to get me through.  Eventually, I would have the opportunity to talk to someone and “let it out,” but I was surprised and pleased to find that I had the strength to get through the hard times.  Knowing that so many people support me, care for me, and think about me definitely helps keep me strong. 

I have been overwhelmed by the letters, packages, and emails I have received in the past few months!   I sincerely thank each of you who have taken the time out of your busy lives to send me a good old-fashioned handwritten letter.  You cannot imagine how great it is to get mail!  Due to the care packages I have received, I think I could clean and feed my entire community.  All I can say is that there is gratitude pouring out of my ears!!

I am very lucky to have another PCV as a neighbor now.  He moved to Thaba-Tseka in December to teach at the local high school, and he is only a 20-minute walk from my house.  So he will NEVER know about isolation since he has the best neighbor in the whole flippin’ world! JK. JK. JK.

Enough about how awesome I am, I want to tell you about how much respect I have gained for others working abroad.  I have always placed a great deal of gratitude and respect on our nation’s military, but working as a “peace-keeper” has increased my awareness of the risks they face.  We are blessed to be living and working in generally peaceful nations where we can actually create the kind of change PC is missioned with doing – education, agriculture and business work, youth development, HIV/AIDS awareness, and so on.  I am grateful for those who give years of their lives to live in places that are not as safe to protect our country so that we are able to do our work.  I would like to think that, with the right mindset, we are working toward a mutual goal of making the world a little better one by one.  Of course both sides falter from time to time, but I hope that people are doing the best they can for the most part.

As Debbie-downer as parts of this post might sound, I am truly filled with a sense of gratitude and genuine joy that I can live in this beautiful country with my extraordinary Basotho friends and neighbors for two years.  I am so happy to be thriving, and I am trying my best to live up to the expectations I had of myself before I came.  There will be future challenges and triumphs just like in any walk of life.  The bumps in the road and the high points are usually a little more drastic, though.  Great – now it went from Debbie-downer to sappy in three sentences! 

I hope to update again soon – maybe with some stories next time and not just my rambling thoughts!  Take care and keep in touch!

Khotso (Peace)

Tara

My First Few Months in The Mountain Kingdom

And so here I am, two and a half months in country with exactly two years left ahead of me. There is so much that I will learn about this place, my job, and more than anything – myself. So now I will sit back and take an inventory of what I have learned and experienced so far.

Perhaps I should start with what I learned today that led to me having enough time to sit down and write.  Basotho (the people of Lesotho) do NOT like cold weather despite the fact that it is surely one of the chilliest places in all of Africa. I gave myself a series of motivational speeches this morning to get myself out of bed. It was soooo cold, and I could see that it had snowed quite a bit during the night. Finally, I emerged from the depths of my warm, cozy bed. I made breakfast and got dressed in about 1,000 layers including the new, sweet gumboots I bought last week! So I made the arduous journey to the school…okay, it’s only a three minute walk – get off my case. I waited for the Director to arrive only for him to say that the instructors will not show up today because it is so cold, and they will not be able to make it from their homes in the village. So as soon as he walked through the door, he told me to go back home and enjoy my day of rest. 

Day of rest??? What does he think I was doing all day Saturday and Sunday while I was bored out of my gourd? Well, anyway, I will make the best of it and stay warm and dry – and reminisce on my time in Lesotho so far.

The first day in Lesotho was a rollercoaster of emotions. Arriving in the airport was exhilarating, but the excitement would soon fade as I asked the Training Director a series of questions (dear to my heart) while on the way to our host villages.

First – “Have our host families hosted volunteers before?”    “NO!”

Okay, I can deal with that.

Second – “Do our host families speak English?”     “NO! And those that do have been told not to speak English to you to ensure that you learn Sesotho.”

Yeah, the panic is beginning to set in puh-retty hardcore at this point.

I plead with her – “but I do not know ANY Sesotho. How will this work?”

“It will be okay. You will see.”

At this point, I’m thinking I am in the car with a psychopath who somehow enjoys seeing Americans squirm under stress and have heart attacks. (It turns out, btw, that she was completely right.) I keep my freaking-out emotions under control – for now.

When we turned off the main road into our village, the driver LAID on the horn for the entire 12 minute ride to the chief’s house. It was the announcement that we had arrived. The children rushed the SUV we were in and ran behind the car until we finally arrived at our destination. We were greeted by essentially the entire village – way too many people to count at that moment. About seven women came to embrace us and shake our hands…these turned out to be our host mothers. My emotions completely overcame me, and seeing the outpouring of hospitality really started the waterworks for me. Thankfully, I had huge sunglasses on, so the whole breakdown was undercover.  One woman in the village came up to us and started SCREAMING “yaaa yaaa yaaa yaaa”, and I seriously thought she was possessed or something! (I would later realize that this is a sound the women make to express extreme happiness or delight.) They greeted us in a very typical and welcoming African way – with songs.

After the greetings, we met our host mothers and were to walk to our homes with them. OMG, the walk from the chief’s house to my house was directly uphill. So I got to my house, and it was just me and my host mother (who speaks very, very little English). I was trying so hard to communicate with her, and she was trying just as hard with me. She left me in my room to set my luggage down and get a little rest. Well, I started freaking out a little. “What was I thinking coming to a country where I don’t even know the language? How stupid are you, Tara? Seriously. You can’t even say a simple sentence in Sesotho. All you have is Hello. This is ridiculous. Really ridiculous.”

There was no time to beat myself up for long because we had to return to the chief’s home for the rest of our group’s arrival. When I got back down there, I started feeling a lot better. Seeing everyone else reassured me that I was not in this alone. They were there to support me, and I was there to support them.

From that day, the learning began at full speed! It didn’t slow down for a second. We learned the language to a level of survival at least. I can say (in very simple terms) most things I need to say, and when I am unable to express myself in Sesotho, there is usually someone around who speaks English.

The people are amazing!! Especially my host family. And the kids, oh man, I love the kids. Don’t get me wrong, I had a run-in with a couple of brats. You know I set them straight realllll fast! One child told me, "You will give me the toy from your room NOW!"  I thought, "Heifer, you do not know who you are dealing with, so I'm gonna let this slide (kinda)." I gave her a "Tara look" and said that her mother would not like what she just said. It happened a few more times, and I finally got stern enough that it ended. Yeah, Tara don't play that!

Onto adorable, precious children who do not require scornful words and faces. One day I was sitting on the couch with my host sister (who is a year old and apparently not latrine-trained just yet), and I picked her up, sat her in my lap, and began playing with her. Well, the little turd proceeded to pee ALL over me. Have mercy, I was sitting that child down and running to my room to change clothes so fast that I was probably just a blur. Clearly having not learned my lesson, I picked the little angel up the next day, and she bit my boob – HARD! It brought tears to my eyes, but I still love that child. I just use a great deal more caution when holding her now.

The food is amazing (sans the sheep intestines offered to me one day), and the mountains are breath-taking! I have met friends who will be life-long sharers of my memories, and that is a priceless thing. You are never so close to a person as when you have to poop beside each other – that’s what my gut instinct is telling me at this point anyway.

 This is a great place to spend 27 months of my life, and I cannot wait to see how much more I learn, experience, and explore here.

P.S. I got to live one of my (many) dreams last month: I turned 30 in Africa!! Wooo-hooo!!

Ahhh Dee Enya Ahh See Ma Ma

That was supposed to be the Lion King song...sorry yes, I am that corny!

I have finally arrived in Africa, The Motherland, the origin of all humankind, and it is beginning to hit me. As we were flying over the southern part of this amazing continent today, I saw some of the most intensely beautiful and awe-inspiring scenery of my life. It was a moment of deep thought and great joy for me personally. It was also an unbelievably long flight - 15.5 hours is a loooong time to spend in flight non-stop (over an ocean no less)!

This journey began a couple of years ago, but it is finally getting to the "active" stage...which is obviously very exciting! I have realized more than ever that, as Bernard of Chantres so famously and eloquently stated, I am standing on the shoulders of giants. I can feel everyone who has sent out prayers, support, love, positive thoughts, and good vibes throughout this journey so far, and I am endlessly thankful for every bit of it! I would certainly not be here without my supporters.

Jayson started me on this voyage about six or seven years ago by giving me a HUGE vote of confidence that I was capable of doing Peace Corps. It comes as a great compliment because he knows what it takes to hack it in this environment and the endless complications and frustrations that accompany it sometimes. My parents and sister (and all my family for that matter) have been so beautiful in their support of their crazy daughter/sister who always (for better or worse) takes the road less traveled by. Without the love and kindness of my amazing friends, I may not have had the courage to do it...but they were there. All of you were always there, and for that I cannot thank you enough.

My good buddy of only about four months has inspired me so deeply that it brought me to tears a few times throughout my flight to Africa. I feel like you're sitting on my shoulder, guiding me with that insane amount of grace and wisdom you have at such a young age. (I know you'll be reading this, so I don't have to call you out by name.) I will carry you with me throughout this journey, and I will do my best to honor the work you started here!

Tomorrow morning we will board a flight from Johannesburg, South Africa to Maseru, Lesotho. From there I will meet the family with whom I will be living during Training! We are all so excited about this milestone...loaded with host family gifts for adults and children. It promises to be a surprising and memorable week.

There is so much to say, but I am too excited and exhausted to keep writing...it would only turn into rambling, I'm sure. I cannot wait to experience the next few days and hopefully be able to report back within a couple weeks. Ohhh, and I will definitely post the "needs list" as soon as I get a grasp of what I need. :) For now, if you want to send anything, PLEASE send pictures and letters (ya know, like pick up a pen and write on some paper!). That will be better than anything anyone sends...I can assure you of that!

The address is:

Tara Hughes, PCV
P.O. Box 554
Maseru, 100
LESOTHO


Thanks again for the good sensation I am feeling right now! Much love to you all :)

Selfishness Disguised as Altruism??

Disclaimer: I think PCV’s are typically good people. J

    With what is, at this point anyway, the greatest challenge of my life just around the corner, I have been contemplating some philosophical questions related to my life choice.

 

   I think one of the biggest mistakes that people make regarding Peace Corps is that it is full of selfless, altruistic individuals who choose to give of themselves with little compensation. Though there is likely an ounce of truth in this, I believe the thinking related to PC is somewhat misguided.

 

   I would like to believe that I am overall a fairly nice, friendly, and kind person – but that has nothing to do with my PC decision. Perhaps it is even in spite of it.

   Okay, now that you think I’m making no sense, let me explain. 

   I think that my choice to become a Peace Corps Volunteer (PCV) is the best decision for my life right now. And that’s the thing – it’s the best decision for MY life right now. I am leaving behind my family, friends, and co-workers.  My decision to be a PCV is completely self-consumed.  I know it will tear my mother’s heart open to see me leave, and yet I will happily and willingly get on that plane.

 

   One of the biggest threats, as I see it, to foreign aid volunteer organizations is to have people going abroad thinking they are a god-send – there to save the communities and villages to which they are sent.  Those are the folks who will likely be the least favored, and therefore least productive, of all.  Humility goes a long way in achieving the goals we seek.  Realizing that we are on their turf and trying to become a part of their communities is essential in creating trust and productivity.

   I challenge those who believe that this is a purely altruistic choice.  I recognize the richness this experience will add to my life.  It is for my benefit that I am going.  It is almost as if not going would be a threat to my well-being, a threat to the very fabric of who I am – a selfish person.

   But don't worry. What the world needs is selfish people (wait, don’t send me hate mail – hear me out)! Not selfish in the mean, cruel sense but selfish in the best way possible.  Selfish in the sense of “this is my passion, and I will not rest until I have accomplished my goals.”  Some people might simply think of this as determination (which it is, I suppose), but I really believe it is a form of selfishness…the kind of selfishness that makes the world go ‘round.

   I have a lot of work experience in healthcare and with that has come exposure to two types of people: those who love their career choice and those who are miserable with their decision.  I can tell you the most significant difference between those who two groups - the way in which they greatly influence those around them (for better or worse).  Patients and co-workers alike recognize the difference. If a person is fully engaged in a career about which they are passionate, they can truly change lives. Trust me, I have seen it happen. However, when a career is chosen due to job availability or income (or the myriad of other reasons people have) instead of scratching that itch deep within their gut that begs to be satisfied, the world is robbed of a gift and a passion. The last thing the world needs is a teacher, nurse, or PCV who is not fully vested in their work. Trust me, I also know all too well about this also!

 When you are so focused on your goal that nothing can stop you from accomplishing it, you are doing wonders for the world.  It doesn’t necessarily mean that you are a wonderful, selfless person; it means that you are a productive member of society who is doing what few others do. ACT!!! Act on your passion – it will surely reward you and everyone and everything you touch!

Beware - After the Nausea Passes, Buying Stuff is Fun!

I've never been one for spending money, but I'm starting to understand how people become addicted to this thing! After having spent the majority of my life going without some of the things people consider "cannot live withouts" (i.e., professional haircuts, nice clothes, expensive make-up, etc.), I have now become an American consumer - like for real. Because I am headed to a place with a colder climate than here in South Carolina, I have had to purchase some big money items...or so they seem to me and my meager wages. I have so far purchased the following: a quality sleeping bag, solar panel charger, hiking backpack, hiking boots, base camp flats, luggage, outdoorsy waterproof coat, North Face and Columbia skirts, and a couple pairs of pants (and maybe some other things that I can't even remember). Thank God for tax returns! At first the purchases were painful and gave me a feeling of nausea. HOWEVER, as the packages began to arrive, I realized how awesome it is to have new, fun stuff. How have I gone all this time without buying so much stuff? I spent 58 years in college and somehow never fell into The North Face Denali Jacket trap/craze. I was so proud of myself for that. Now, though, I realize how people can become addicted to buying and having new, out-of-the-package-smelling things. With that said, I am happy that I will be able to spend the next couple of years recuperating from this buying binge!

On another note, I got an update on my Application Status and now I have dental, medical, legal, and placement clearance!!! Looks like everything is in place for May 31!

50 years of Peace Corps seems to have made the world a little smaller

Happy 50th Birthday, Peace Corps! I am so proud to be a part of this organization, and it's exciting to join in its 50th year with over 200,000 volunteers preceding me.

I had a very interesting day yesterday as the world seemed to get a little smaller as often happens when I meet different people from around the world. Yesterday, though, was different. I met a few people through friends of mine - friends from little bitty old Clemson - who have served in Lesotho! My friend Julie (who is currently serving in Namibia) knows someone who served in Lesotho, and she was kind enough to email me offering to answer any questions. My good friend Jayson (who is currently serving as a PC-Response Volunteer in Colombia) met a couple people at his current site over the past few weeks who also just finished up their service in Lesotho. So now I have quite a network of RPCVs to answer questions and offer advice. I am so blessed to have these friends and these connections.

As the deadlines for my passport application, dental clearance, aspiration statement (seriously ANOTHER one??), and many other things approaches, I am getting more and more excited about this new chapter of my life. I have decided that research is great and all, but I need to pull myself away from Internet searches about Lesotho to spend time with actual humans who I enjoy and love!! Time is more precious than ever to me.

On this 50th anniversary of PC, I hope we all take a moment to appreciate previous generations of Peace Corps Volunteers. Through their dedication, compassion, humility, and open-mindedness, the work of current PCVs is undoubtedly richer than it would be had they not blazed the trail. Thank you for giving Peace Corps a good reputation throughout the world!